Granite Mountain

Granite Mountain is located less than 10 miles north and west of Prescott, Arizona at an elevation of about 7,600 feet. It is a huge chunk of granite with routes up to 500 feet long. This is an old-school, traditional climbing area with bold and sometimes intimidating routes. Bolts are at a minimum as most routes follow crack systems. The ratings are considered stiff by many climbers.

The people who established these routes were hard climbers. This area was far from other mainstream climbing areas so they were conservative with the ratings, meaning that a 5.9 climb here may feel like a 5.10 climb at another climbing area. This makes Granite Mountain less attractive to those who aren't fans of old-school traditional routes, which is most climbers now days. However, if you enjoy traditional climbing on good granite with an adventure feel to it and can swallow your ego with regard to the ratings you will enjoy this place. Another positive aspect of the aforementioned is that you rarely have to wait in line to do a classic route here.

Granite Mountain from a distance

Granite Mountain - west side

In late July I met Arjun in Prescott for a couple of days of climbing at the local crags. There are several good climbing areas in Prescott. Granite Mountain is my favorite but Granite Dells has some good climbs as well. We did a handful of climbs at High Rappel Dell in the 5.8 to 5.10- range. All were good, fun routes. We were able to climb all morning in the shade, which is pretty much a necessity in the summer. The average high temperature this time of year is about 90F, and with the sun heating up the rock it feels much hotter than that.

Brian leading Guillotine, 5.8

Arjun's dog Luna

Next we decided to take on Granite Mountain. I had never climbed there during the middle of the summer because it is still pretty hot, even at this elevation. We decided to experiment and see how it would go. Our intention was to start early enough to be able to climb on the west face while it was in the shade. However, there is no protection from the sun during the hike and we did suffer a bit. The hike took us almost an hour.

The hike up to the base of the rock follows the Granite Mountain Trail for a good portion of the way, then splits off at a hairpin turn and follows a faint climber's trail through the scrub brush, cactus and boulders. A fire raged through this area several years ago, leaving charred remains of trees and scrub brush behind. You're likely to get some charcoal on you during the bushwhack.

We decided to do the classic link-up of Coatimundi Whiteout and Candyland. The route goes at 5.9, ascending the first two pitches of Coatimundi Whiteout and the last pitches of Candyland. This line is very compelling, following a major corner system up to the Great Roof, then traverses out right under the roof. The photo below shows the general path that the route takes.

Coatimundi-Candyland topo

Arjun led the first pitch, which ascends a large flake to a corner, then follows the corner up to a two bolt belay stance. The rock on this pitch is water polished in a few areas so you have to pay attention or you will lose the never-ending battle with gravity. Arjun did a fine job leading this pitch, which goes at 5.8. Remember the previous discussion about Granite Mountain ratings. This is not an easy pitch.

Arjun leading up the flake

Placing pro in the corner

Arjun at the first belay

I led pitch 2, which continues up the corner system. This pitch is fairly physical in spots and has a little bit of everything including hand jams, laybacks, offwidth and chimney moves. The original route traverses out onto the face to a flake system about halfway up to avoid a small roof. I stayed in the corner system all the way, which keeps the pressure on and provides a couple of good 5.9 moves.

Brian leading pitch 2 - offwidth section

Arjun then led a short pitch up a wide crack to get to the base of the Great Roof. The Great Roof pitch is one of the most amazing pitches on Granite Mountain. It's not hard, going at 5.7, but it sure looks like it would be. It has some great exposure for both the leader and follower. That's the nice thing about a traversing pitch. Both the leader and follower get the same thrill of "leading" the pitch. A fall on a traverse can be just as dangerous for the follower as the leader, and maybe more so. If either the leader or the follower falls they could be hanging in space with no easy way to get back on the route.

Brian taking a photo of the Great Roof

Here's the photo

Brian leading the Great Roof

Nearing the corner

Around the corner 

Follower's view of the Great Roof

Arjun following the Great Roof

Nearing the corner

Brian belaying

After traversing under the roof there is just one more pitch to go. It follows a thin crack up to a small roof, then around the roof and up a jam crack to the top. The crux (5.9-) is transitioning from the thin finger crack to a nice hand jam under the roof. The feet are thin and the finger crack is a bit awkward, making this part hard. As Arjun started leading the last pitch the sun poked it's head over the steep granite face. The temperature increase was noticed immediately. It wasn't long until we were standing on the top enjoying the views.

Arjun leading final pitch

Arjun looking southward

Brian facing eastward

I found an old sardine can up there that had been a good post-climb meal for somebody many years before. Funny how a little thing like that can make you realize how hungry you are! We hastened to the descent.

Rusted sardine can

Arjun rappelling Coke Bottle

The descent involves three double rope rappels down the Coke Bottle route. The first rappel is a rope stretcher. With a 60 meter rope you have just enough to reach the ledge, but absolutely no extra. The ledge is decent sized, but extreme caution is advised because one wrong move and it's curtains. The two following rappels aren't as long. You can throw caution to the wind. Ha!

We rested for a spell in the shade and re-energized with some food and water. The sun had moved to the west side of the rock and the east side was now in the shade. Although the rock was still radiating heat, it was tolerable in the shade. We decided to do another shorter climb on this side.

We picked a three pitch route that combined the first two pitches of Granite Jungle (5.7) with the last pitch of Chieu Hoi (5.9). Arjun was gracious enough to let me have the Chieu Hoi pitch. It involves laybacking a thin crack up an appealing dihedral, then transitioning left up a diagonal crack to the finish. What an amazing pitch!

Brian leading last pitch of Chieu Hoi

Traverse up diagonal crack is tricky

Finishing the traverse

After rappelling down this climb our energy was spent. The sun was making its way over the horizon, getting low enough to make the hike down less brutal. It was a fabulous day with fabulous climbing. I look forward to climbing at Granite Mountain again. 

Stay tuned for the next adventure...a climbing trip to the Sierra Nevada!