Matthes Crest

Joe, Megan and I met in Tuolumne Meadows the first week in August with the mission of completing some climbs that had long been on our 'to do' list. Matthes Crest was high on our list so we decided to make it our first priority.

Matthes Crest is a steep, fin-like rock formation approximately one mile long located in the Cathedral Range in the Tuolumne Meadows area of Yosemite National Park. It reaches roughly 10,900 feet in elevation and is extremely exposed, providing a spectacular view to those who are willing to put forth the effort to get there. The approach is about six miles from the Cathedral Lakes trailhead.

Matthes Crest

Preparation is important for a long climb in the backcountry and there are many things to consider. Weather is probably the most important consideration. Inclement weather can turn a fun outing into an epic in a matter of minutes. There are a few necessities that need to be addressed, including food, water, climbing gear, and the clothing necessary to survive inclement weather. I typically carry a first aid kit as well but those are pretty compact and light now days. One could carry all kinds of things to combat inclement weather in relative comfort. However, extra 'comfort' gear means extra weight, which slows you down. I prescribe to the 'light and fast' philosophy; carry as little as possible so that you can move as fast as possible. This risk management strategy is an attempt to reduce the probability that a risk event (getting caught in a storm) will happen.

We rose before daylight and ate breakfast by the dim light of our headlamps. Temperatures were in the mid 40's, which felt cold to us Arizonans. We quickly made a lunch of PB&J sandwiches, packed our small day packs with food, clothing and gear, and enjoyed the warmth of the truck's heater as we drove to the Cathedral Lakes trailhead. Since none of us had been on the climb before we didn't skimp on climbing gear. We took a set of stoppers, a single set of BD cams through #3, and one 60 meter rope. We weren't absolutely sure that one 60 meter rope would get us to the ground without having to leave a gear anchor somewhere. However, we felt that it was worth the risk because we'd be able to move faster without the weight of an extra rope.

The approach to Matthes Crest is about six miles long, three of which are on a nice trail. The trail follows Budd Creek for a good distance and then veers off onto granite slabs, with occasional cairns which lead to Budd Lake. From Budd Lake the trail is faint and hard to follow. It was more effort to try to follow the trail than just pointing in the direction of a few key landmarks and going, which is what we did. The hiking was pretty easy until we reached a steep slope of loose dirt and rock below a saddle. This section was strenuous because it is hard to maintain good footing. However, after reaching the saddle it's mostly a downhill cruise.

Joe and Megan following Budd Creek

Brian & Joe at Budd Lake

Joe & Megan at Budd Lake

We're headed to the steep scree slope which leads to the saddle

Steep scree slope

Joe and Megan slogging up the steep slope

Matthes Crest!

It took us about 2.5 hours to make our way from the trailhead to the south end of Matthes Crest where the climb begins. Fortunately, we were the first party there so we didn't have to wait on anyone.

The climbing on Matthes Crest is not technically difficult, rated at 5.7, but the exposure is significant. There are only a handful of fifth class pitches on the route. The first three pitches to access the top of the ridge are in the 5.3 to 5.5 range. The pitch that descends the south summit is perhaps 5.2, and the last pitch which ascends the north summit is 5.7 or 5.8 depending on which path you take. The rest of the climb is mostly third and fourth class scrambling with an occasional fifth class move here and there. The exposure is truly amazing and causes some to want to stay roped up. However, the ridge traverse is really very secure and I felt perfectly comfortable without a rope. I brought my climbing shoes but never did put them on. My approach shoes were perfectly adequate for the job and were much more comfortable.

Joe led the first pitch to get things started and I combined the next two into one long pitch, which worked well with a 60 meter rope. Climbing with three people on a single rope is a little different. With two people, each person ties in to one end of the rope. Add another person to the mix and you have to figure out where to put the third. Our method was to have the two followers climb simultaneously, with about 20 to 30 feet between them. The first follower tied in to the rope with a butterfly knot and the second tied in to the end of the rope. The long separation between the two followers ensures that the first climber won't hit the second if they fall. If the second climber falls it is likely that they will pull the first climber off with them. While this is certainly undesirable, it's not likely to cause a major injury because the followers are on top rope and the fall should be short. The climbing on this route was easy and we felt that this was an acceptable risk.

Joe leads pitch 1

Megan at the base of the climb

Joe & Megan following pitch 2

Megan finishing pitch 3

Once on top of the ridge we coiled the rope and began the fun third and fourth class scrambling. Onward and upward! We moved at a comfortable pace, enjoying the views and taking photos when the opportunity presented itself. There were two places along the way where Joe and Megan roped up to negotiate some exposed areas with fifth class moves, but most of the way we were unroped.

Onward and upward!

Megan & Joe on the ridge

Up the ridge

Joe surveying our progress

Megan's photo op

Brian enjoying the exposure

Joe spotting Megan on a downclimb - it's a long way down!

Joe & Megan following the ridge

Joe enjoying the journey

In the afternoon we noticed some high clouds moving our way. As the clouds began to cover the sun the temperature dropped and the wind suddenly felt colder. By this time we were near the end of the climb but it was a good reminder that there was no time for lolly-gagging. Getting stuck in a storm up here would be miserable. We picked up the pace and kept an eye on the sky.

Joe leading an exposed section

Megan following Joe's lead

Where we've been

Megan at one of the many summits

Find Brian...I'm up near the top of the rock

Another roped section - awesome view!

Near the end of the climb there is a deep notch in the ridge. The southern part is called the south summit and the northern part is called the north summit. Are you following this? I guess climbers like to keep things simple.

The Notch

We roped up and Joe led the 5.2 down-climb from the south summit to the notch. Megan and I followed this short section of maybe 20 feet or so. In order to rappel off the route and not leave gear one needs to climb to the top of the north summit. I led the pitch to the north summit, which started with a 5.8 offwidth section and then eased off to a 5.4 chimney section. I must say that climbing the 5.8 portion in approach shoes was a little harder than I expected. It's amazing what a difference climbing shoes make. Joe and Megan followed this pitch and we got situated to rappel down. At this point the wind had picked up and there were a few light drops of rain coming down.

Joe setting up to rappel

Rappel setup - webbing slung around a huge horn

Joe on rappel

The weather held and we managed to get off the rock with only a few small drops of rain to remind us of how fortunate we were to have decent weather. It took us about 5 hours to complete the route and another 30 minutes to rappel to the ground. Our gear selection of a set of nuts and a single set of BD cams through #3 was more than adequate for the climb. A single 60 meter rope was also adequate for the rappel off the north summit.

We snarfed down some power bars and began the long hike back to the trailhead. The crux of the hike out is the steep hill up to the saddle above Budd Lake. It seemed harder on the way back. That's what 8 hours of non-stop movement will do to you.

Joe and Megan on the long slog up to the saddle

It was windy and cold in the saddle. However, when we dropped down the other side we were sheltered from the wind and it was perfect hiking weather. It was pretty much downhill the rest of the way. Being tired and low on energy, we appreciated the help of gravity as we cruised on down to the trailhead.

It took us about 2.5 hours to get from the base of Matthes Crest to the trailhead. We had been moving continuously for about 10.5 hours (car to car). It wasn't the longest day that I've experienced but it was long enough to feel like I'd gotten a workout. We were in dire need of food, and headed to the Mobile Station (A.K.A. Whoa Nellie Deli) near Lee Vining to feast. Warm food never tasted so good!

We had an awesome day and a great adventure! Matthes Crest certainly lived up to the hype. I highly recommend doing this climb.

Stay tuned for my next adventure...one of the longest climbs at Red Rocks, just west of Las Vegas.